ROSE PLANTS NOW FOR SALE
LOCAL PICK UP ONLY
COFFS HARBOUR COAST
Roses Naturally TOP 15 Rose Bush Plants
The most DISEASE RESISTANT & EXCEPTIONALLY VIGOUROUS boasting DELICIOUS FRAGRANCE and SPECTACULAR COLORS!
& Prolific year round flowering*
They are the 12 MOST OUTSTANDING roses after trialling hundreds of varieties and they are simply INCREDIBLE IN OUR COASTAL CONDITIONS
and the Best 3 Climbing Fragrant spectacular Rose Plants also now available
Rose Plants are Pick Up Only from Nambucca Heads by arrangement
or the Thursday Coffs Growers market (all day in city centre opp palms shopping centre)
Please contact us for further information on our rose plants
ph:0406 404 916 www.rosesnaturally.com.au email: firstname.lastname@example.org
PLANTING AND ROSE PLANT CARE
Pests and Diseases
How to handle rootstock growth
No matter what sort of rose you have chosen, they love sunshine, plenty of water without being boggy and climbers are great against a wall, fence or over an arch. They flower prolifically from spring to autumn, and in our climate often all year if you do not get frosts.
In general roses are very drought tolerant once established and if they are in a soil and position they like, they are extremely hardy and tough. They are one of the fastest plants to regrow and recover if cut down.
MOST IMPORTANT RULES OF ROSE PLANTING
· SOAK FOR 24 HRS bareroot roses before planting
· CHOOSE A SUNNY SPOT 8 hrs a day sunshine is ideal
· Choose A WELL DRAINED SITE not boggy , ideally loamy or clay with ph of 5.5-6
· KEEP THE ROOTS WET AT ALL TIMES until the rose is in the soil
· Did a good 30cm SQ 30cm DEEPHOLE ( 1foot) , make a centre pyramid, so the roots can spread out and down.
· Plant at a height so BUD UNION IS ABOUT 5CM ABOVE THE SOIL (bud union is the thicker part at base where canes come out)
· WATER IN WELL at least a bucket, even if wet soil.
· DO NOT USE FERTILIZER AT PLANTING EXCEPT OSMOCOTE SLOW RELEASE--normal fertilizers/manures will burn new roots
· DO NOT USE ROUND UP anywhere near the planted are for 3mths prior and at least 12 months post. Be extremely careful not to let any drift of round up near adult plants, at best will cause localized distortion, at worst death.
· KEEP THEM WELL WATERED until established. THEY LOVE WATER even once established (without being in a bog) , although they will survive the dry very well once they are well established.
· DO NOT DIG AROUND THEM--they have very superficial roots, that can extend over a metre, that are damaged by digging.
· MULCH WELL but Do NOT COVER THEIR BUD UNION with mulch or soil , it needs to breathe to be free of rot.
-NEVER DIG AROUND THEIR ROOTS their very superficial roots are easily damaged, and you will do more harm than good
· FERTILISE EVERY 2 MONTHS with a rose food, alternate with dynamic lifter or the like occasionally. Osmocote etc need less frequent applications.
· MONITOR their LEAVES REGULARLY– diagnose any changes and treat appropriately. Regular preventative fungal sprays are important.
· SEE OUR DISEASE NOTES BELOW for info such as on MITES, DOWNY MLDEW, MONEOLEPTAS -problems to watch out for and they need specific treatment.
All roses require an open, sunny and well drained position. At least 6 hours sun per day is required, preferably more. Shaded parts of the garden are more liable to attacks from fungus diseases as the plants remain wet for too long after rains or dewy nights.
If planting multiple roses for a spectacular mass effect plant about 1m apart
SOILS Ideal soils are not available to everyone, but roses are very adaptable with some help from the gardener.
Best soils are medium to heavy loam to about 35 cm minimum depths, over a good clay sub-soil. However roses can be grown successfully in many soil types.
Light soils require copious quantities of compost and animal manures, as well as more frequent watering as they do not retain moisture or nutrients.
Mulching is advisable with all soil types as it eliminates so many problems and requires less watering and weeding. Mulching also retains better average soil temperature.
Some mulches to use: Pea straw, lucerne, Sugar cane, leaf mould, peat moss, horse or cow manure. Paper and cardboard are great as well as they last longer.
DO NOT – use fowl manure or other quick soluble fertilisers at planting time with bare root roses.
DO NOT – use weedicides or pre-emergence weedicides near planting time.
PLANTING ROSES The ideal time for planting bare root roses in Australia is late Winter/early Spring. Later planting is possible, depending upon climate, but generous watering will be necessary until the plants have established.
SOAK bareroot roses for minimum 12-24 hrs before planting. Ensure they are in a deep enough bucket , a 10L is usually fine, that ALL of their roots are covered with water . The top of the bud union and canes should not be in water.
BARE ROOT ROSES Be careful not to damage any roots. Soak the roots in water for 24 hours. Do not let the roots dry out.
If the plants arrive well in advance of your desired planting time they will keep in a bucket of water for a week or more but for longer should be heeled-in (select an open space in the garden, dig one large hole and plant all your bundled roses in it and firm down soil. Water in well. They keep for several weeks if kept watered.
Any torn roots can be cut neatly off with disinfected secateurs
The proposed rose bed should have been dug over many times prior to planting and brought to a good tilth, ready for the plants. A thorough cultivation at the time of planting is a bare minimum.
Dig a hole large enough to take the roots, which should be placed down and outwards over a small mound at the bottom of the hole. A hole approximately 30cm wide by 25cm deep should be sufficient.
Cover with soil and firm down moderately. Water in well. The bud graft or bud union should remain approximately 2.5 cm –5cm above soil level. Do not use fertilisers at planting time, as this may burn the roots. However slow release osmocote can be beneficial.
IT IS MOST IMPORTANT NOT TO LET THE ROOTS DRY OUT AT ANY STAGE OF PLANTING.
PESTS & DISEASES
Healthy roses are best able to resist pests and diseases. If a plant is in the right situation, is well-fed and watered, then it will have fewer pests and diseases. THE BEST WAY TO GOOD ROSE BUSHES IS REGULAR MONITORING
They do need treating to maintain good health and vitality if a disease is present. There are lots of organic alternatives suitable if you only have a few roses Start a preventative spray program early in Spring with a good brand of rose fungicide and spray at two to three week intervals. Immediately after Winter pruning, spray the roses and surrounding ground with Lime Sulphur this helps eradiate fungal spores left on the ground, and treat any scale insects built up over the year ( those white spots on base of canes) and many other insects.
BLACK SPOT: The most common problem with roses, it appears as random black spots on the foliage going on to yellow the leaf. If left unattended the plant will become defoliated and lose vigour. The best way to control Blackspot is with a preventative spray program such as with mancozeb, copper based spray or there are natural milk based sprays on the internet. These are generally washed off in the rain and hence need regular application every few weeks or after rain when blackspot is most likely.
DOWNY MILDEW: A bit more serious than black spot. It similarly appears as leaf spots but they are red/brown to black color and when you hold the leaf up to the light the spot is translucent unlike a blackspot lesion that will block the light. Again a preventative program as for blackspot, other treatments such as those at your local rural store.
POWDERY MILDEW: Appears as a white powder mainly on younger growth and is usually at its worse in sub-tropical areas where night air is cool and dews are prevalent. If left untreated it will cause the rose to drop its leaves prematurely and flowers to shrink and deform. Many of the sprays available for Black Spot are also effective against Powdery Mildew, always read the labels carefully. Lime sulphur is also effective.
RUST: Not a common, but quite an important disease. Appears as rust coloured spots or swellings on the underside of leaves and occasionally on the stems. If not treated it can quickly defoliate the plant. Consult your garden centre for a suitable spray that will deal with rust.
APHIDS: Small, soft, green or brown sap sucking insects that cluster on the soft tips and buds of rose. Wash off with a hose, or for severe infestation use a pyrethrum based or organic insecticide.
SPIDER MITES: These very important, quite common when it is hot and dry and if not treated can slow a bush down. They particularly love hot, dry weather, but are capable of being a problem any time. They cause a pale green dry look to the leaves, and then turn them yellow. They generally work their way up from the base so if you kneel down you will see the yellow leaves on the lower branches.
Look ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE LEAF for groups of tiny grains of sand ( each grain is a mite or its egg) and occasionally a fine web, a magnifying glass is necessary to see the mites clearly. By the time you can see all this, you have a problem. **they also make the plant susceptible to fungal diseases but if the mites are not treated the fungi problem will not resolve.
Spray the underside of the leaves with water as spider mites hate water directly on them. For heavy infestations, spray with a miticide chemical or eco oil. Ideally these need to be sprayed on the underside of the leaves. Beware if they are a chemical that only kills the adults not the eggs you need at least 3 sprays 5 days apart.
There are excellent “good” predator mites available that help maintain long term control more effectively and eco friendly– please ask us about these
MONOLEPTA BEETLES– these love to chew any part of the bush. To find them just tap a bush and they will do a fast hover out of the bush and fly away. They look like an ugly orangey colored ladybird. Any insecticide will usually control them.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Always use sprays in strict accordance to directions on labels. Use protective clothing for safety and do not spray when temperature is above 25deg C
· Garden centres and supermarkets etc tend to stock combination sprays that will treat most of the above diseases in one small pack.
- Eco oil is a botanical oil mix that is good for most diseases.
· Avoid watering in the evening, as night dampness is conducive to the spread of fungal disease.
PRUNING IS REALLY SIMPLE:
Do in winter when plants are more dormant.
Use secateurs with blades that have been sprayed with a disinfectant. Spray their blades frequently.
Remove dead canes at base.
Trim remaining best 3-7 canes to about 1/2 to 2/3 their height
Spray cut ends and whole remaining bush with a broad spectrum spray like Lime Sulphur ( obviously read directions and take all label precautions)
Most rose plants are budded onto “root-stock”. Occasionally a shoot from the root stock grows and is known as a “sucker”. It will come from below the graft, the foliage and flower will look distinctly different.
To remove sucker growth, first find where it originates. This may be on the main stem or from a root below ground. Take a sharp knife and remove the growth completely.
DO NOT confuse water shoots with suckers. Water shoots ALWAYS come from the graft and are new young canes.
Every effort has been made so that all plants sold by us are of the description and kind specified at the time of sale. Where reasonable proof is given that the plants have been wrongly labelled or damaged by us we will correct the mistake with new plants the following season. We give no warranty expressed or implied as to the growth, description, quality or productiveness and will not be in any way responsible for the crop, as these factors are governed by forces which are beyond our control. Please notify us as soon as possible if you are concerned about a newly planted rose, all claims must be received within 3 months of purchase. We will always be available for advice about your plants
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